Hollywood

Hollywood isn't one neighborhood — it's at least three layered on top of each other. The version most people picture (Walk of Fame, tour buses) is a thin strip along Hollywood Boulevard. The version residents actually live in starts a few blocks north and south of it: Spanish revival fourplexes, mid-century courtyard buildings, and pre-war elevator apartments you can't really find anywhere else in LA.

North of Franklin is quiet and surprisingly leafy — closer to Runyon Canyon's morning hikes than to any tourist trap. South toward Melrose is denser, walkable to Sunset's late-night food. Both work; they just attract different lifestyles.

Hollywood is the most forgiving entry point for people new to LA. Central to everything (Echo Park east, Beverly Hills west), Metro-accessible if you want a no-car life, and full of buildings with real architectural character. Quiet block one week, Hollywood Bowl the next.